Ozone Joe’s Water Purification Systems
Residential Pool Ozonator Installation Guide

Models Covered
OJ-30MR-
30,000 gallon above ground or in-ground Swimming Pool
OJ-45LR-
45,000 gallon in-ground Swimming Pool
OJ-65LR-
65,000 gallon in-ground Swimming Pool
The
intent of this reference guide is to discuss Ozone in general, what to expect,
installation considerations and basic troubleshooting ideas. It will provide a
basic overview of Ozone applications when applied to swimming pools and other
water needing purification.
This
guide will provide recommendations for installing OZONE JOE’S non-compressor
driven Ozonator Water Purification Systems. In other words, the recommendations
in this document are for Venturi Injector applications, or swimming pool pump
suction-side installations.
You
will be provided install suggestions based on different filter media such as
(DE) Diatomaceous Earth Filters, Sand Filters (river stone or crushed Granite),
and Cartridge Filter applications. Issues you may encounter from each type
filter will also be discussed.
You
may choose the installation method that best fits your application and plumbing
constraints.
We
will also discuss the two primary man made ways of producing Ozone--- (CD)
Corona Discharge and (VUV) Very Ultra Violet Ozone producing Lamps.
First
off let’s start by emphasizing that no swimming pool should be without an
Ozonator. It does not matter whether you are using Chlorine, Bromine, Biquanides,
Ionization, or a state of the art Saltwater Chlorine Generator for use as a
sanitizer, all swimming pools should have an Ozonator installed. Ozonators allow
for a significant reduction in harmful chemical usage. In the case of Saltwater
Chlorine Generators, typically less salt can be used reducing potential
corrosive effects. At a minimum, the operating level of the generator cell may
be reduced prolonging cell life. Addition of an Ozonator will help ensure there
is sufficient sanitizer to handle the unexpected bather load, or torrential
downpour. Swimming pools with Ozonators are more environmentally friendly and
healthier. They are also much easier to maintain.
When
an Ozone Joes Ozonator is installed correctly on a swimming pool, the water
clarity will be great and bathers will no longer have to tolerate red burning
eyes and itching skin. Pool odors will also be a thing of the past.
Ozone
in General
Ozone
is a gas which is produced in nature or by man. Ozone gas has a very short life
cycle and must be produced on site. Because of this short life cycle a residual
sanitizer must be maintained, but at a drastically reduced level. Ozone is
thousands times more powerful than Chlorine in oxidizing organic load in water.
Ozone has been used in water treatment since the 1890’s, and has been used in
all International Olympics Swimming Pools for many years to include the recent
Beijing Olympics.
Ozonators
act as a continual super chlorination or shock process without the residual
affects or cost of large amounts of chemicals. In fact, since ozone is so
effective at eliminating contaminants and freeing up chlorine bound as
chloramines, it is not often, or at all, that a residential pool has need for
chemical shock of a pool which has a working Ozonator. It is recommended however
that one last shock treatment is applied just prior to installing an Ozonator,
and that all chemical levels are as close to recommended as possible.
Ozone
is also the strongest agent known to man at killing water borne viruses and
bacteria.
Ozone
causes precipitation and flocculation of small particles that are normally small
enough to pass through a filter media during the oxidation process. These
smaller particles become similar to ash and attach to other particles making
them now large enough to be trapped in the filter. Oils are also oxidized and
the same flocculation process occurs.
Different
types of swimming pool and spa Ozonators
Note:
Ozone Joe’s Residential Pool and Spa Ozonators use VUV lamp technology.
Corona
Discharge (CD) Ozonator:
Ozone is created by passing air through a highly electrically energized chamber
consisting of metal or ceramic plates spaced apart to form a gap where the
electricity constantly discharges causing a corona field. One issue with Corona
technology is that all elements passing through the electrical field are
altered. Ambient air contains 79-80% Nitrogen and 17-19% Oxygen so not only is
Ozone being formed from Oxygen, but harmful Nitrogen byproducts are also being
formed. Another issue is high ambient humidity also plays a role in the
electrical corona field potentially reducing ozone output. Corona Discharge
systems typically require higher maintenance than Very Ultra Violet lamp
systems. Check valves and injectors are more adversely affected in CD systems as
well by being gummed up by the Nitrogen byproducts.
Very
Ultra Violet Lamps (VUV) Ozonator:
Sometimes confused with UV germicidal system terminology which is a totally
different technology. VUV systems produce Ozone gas when air is passed across
the lamps in a chamber. This technology is similar to the Sun’s rays creating
the Earth’s outer Ozone layer. One upside to this technology is that only Oxygen
is altered and not Nitrogen so no harmful byproducts are created. Tests have
shown that the oxidizing potential using VUV lamps actually increases in higher
humidity environments. Do not look
directly at operating Ozone producing lamps.
What to expect after
installing an Ozone Joe’s Ozonator
There
are several considerations as to the different stages the pool may encounter
before becoming sparkling and crystal clear and odor free. Factors as how long
has the water been in the pool, what sanitizer is or has been used, what is the
pump cycle time, and what is the filter media will be discussed.
The
amazing thing with using an Ozonator on a swimming pool if it is sized correctly
and working properly is how absolutely great the water clarity becomes. The pool
“Deep End” regardless of depth appears to be quite shallow. The name on the
drain can be identified versus just seeing the drain. The oils often found on
the surface such as suntan oils causing the pool to have a dull look are
destroyed and the dullness is replaced with a sparkling colorful surface similar
to a diamond ring in a jewelry store under a bright light. Additionally, the
“ring around the tub” so typical of suntan and other oils is addressed. The
water will have a softer feel to it. Swimming pool odors are eliminated.
All
of these great things occur, but the time it takes to get there will vary and
range from 1 day to a week and a half or so depending upon the pre-Ozone
condition of the water to be purified. There are observable changes that will
occur from the moment an Ozone Joes Ozonator is correctly installed and powered
on.
If
the swimming pool has had the same water in it for a long period, and has
accumulated a lot of TDS over time due to small debris passing through filters
in varying sizes, you can expect the first few days to be pretty rough. The
swimming pool will become very murky around days two-three and should show
significant signs of clearing by day four. As the ozone flocculates the debris
into larger pieces, although they were always there, they become quite
noticeable. The Ozone is working its magic. This debris will eventually be
trapped in the filter and additional backwashing, cleaning of cartridge filters,
or cleaning and recharging DE filters will be required, so
keep an eye on the filter pressure.
This process is temporary and handling of the filter will be as usual after the
first week.
What
to expect with different sanitizers:
Note:
Chlorine, bromine and Salt Chorine Generator pools will experience the above.
Biquanides have additional observations.
Chlorine:
Shock the pool
just prior to installing an Ozonator. Keep the same chlorine dose as used prior
to installing an Ozonator for the first week, then adjust amount used to
maintain between .5 and 1.0 ppm available chlorine. Do not shock during the
period that flocculation is in process or you will be back at the starting
point. Let the Ozone do its work.
Bromine:
Same recommendations as for chlorine. You may find that if the reason for using
the more expensive Bromine as a sanitizer was due to chlorine allergies, you may
be able to revert to chlorine as the sanitizer as lesser levels are required. It
is also likely that chloramines were the culprit to allergies, and chloramines
should no longer be an issue. Swimming pools using Bromine as the sanitizer may
require a larger sized Ozonator.
Biquanides:
Arch Chemicals, manufacturer of Baquacil, has tested Ozone compatibility and
assures they are compatible. In addition to the observations listed above, pools
that currently use Biquanides based products or pools that previously used them
and have converted back to chlorine or bromine have a tendency to produce
brownish colored foam. Consider this foam as proof the Ozonator is doing its
job. Sometimes the foam is quite noticeable, but it does normally subside and is
eliminated in a week or so.
Salt
Chlorine Generator:
Users of salt chlorine generators state how clear and how soft the water feels.
What can be expected is similar to chlorine and bromine based pools as far as
the transition phase. The water clarity will actually improve. After about a
week, the salt generator equipment may need to be turned down as the available
or free chlorine will have increased if the settings are unchanged. You may also
find that the adjustment of pH levels is not as frequent.
What
to expect with different filter types
It
is very important to keep a watchful eye on the pool filter for the
first week regardless of
starting water condition.
Sand
filters: The
filter will have more debris that is large enough to trap during the first week.
If sand filters are not backwashed as needed during this initial period they
will eventually wind up with crevices (canyons) in the sand media which allows
the now larger flocculated debris to keep re-circulating to the pool. Water
under pressure has to go somewhere, and when the sand is clogged with debris, it
will make a path. After the first week, the filters can be treated as usual.
Cartridge
filters: One must
be careful during the first week with cartridge filters. The additional debris
load that is now large enough to be trapped in the filter will restrict the
water flow. The filter must be cleaned of this debris or it is possible that the
filter will become perforated and require replacement. The water will make a
path, and the path it makes in a cartridge filter is by puncturing a hole.
Diatomaceous
Earth DE filters:
DE filters may experience perforation of a grid, or crevices of the media
described above under sand and cartridge filters. The good news is that much of
the smaller debris that normally would pass through other filter types have been
addressed, so the flocculation is not as severe. This being the case, there may
still be issues of filters clogging during the first week. One thing that should
also be pointed out here is that using the bypass with venturi injection install
technique in figure 2 (discussed later) will allow some of the DE to be
introduced to the pool when recharging unless a cutoff valve is placed in the
bypass line.
Common Guidelines for all Installations
Electrical connection
considerations
Note:
The Ozone Joes Ozonator should be installed by a qualified electrician.
Ozone
Joes Residential Pool Ozonators allow for manual switching between 110/230 VAC
input power. This is accomplished by a slide switch located inside the unit on
the ballast. Diagram below.
It
is recommended that Ozone Joes Ozonator electrical cord connections be slaved to
the recirculation pump wiring whether via existing timer, controller, electrical
box or direct so the Ozonator is only powered on while the pump is running.
Maximum
operating current requirements:
0.38 amps @ 110 VAC, 0.19 amps @ 220 VAC.
The
green wire is grounded internally inside the unit. There is also an external
grounding lug.
110
VAC units are shipped with 3 prong NEMA connectors. If connecting directly to
110 VAC via pigtail, simply cut off the 3 prong connector. If connecting to a
220 VAC application and the unit you receive has a 3 prong connector, it will be
necessary to remove the end plate (end plate with power cord) to gain access to
the internal ballast slide switch. Slide to 220 position and replace end plates
ensuring the clear end plate gasket is reinstalled correctly.
After
unit is installed, and electricity is applied, the end-plate gaskets should have
a blue glow to determine that the internal Ozone lamps are working correctly.
This glow does not go around the entire gasket. Any glow is an indication that
ozone is being produced.
¼” Ozone vinyl hose
connection
Every
Ozone Joes Ozonator system includes 6 feet of vinyl hose, one ¼” x ¼” barbed
ozone resistant check valve, and 4 black plastic “C” clamps.
Please
note the direction of air-flow through the check valve prior to installation.
Normally our check valves have a flat side and a curved side. The curved side is
pointing in the direction of air flow. Flow direction will be away from the
Ozonator and toward the Injector or drain plug on the pump if installing in
suction side applications. You can blow into the valve to determine flow
direction.
Cut
about a foot of the supplied ¼” hose and attach the check valve to the two hose
pieces. Attach one of the remaining hose ends to the hose barb fitting on the
Ozone Joes Ozonator. It does not matter whether the check valve is nearer to the
Ozonator or the injector. Leave the other end disconnected at this time. It will
be connected after all of the plumbing is installed, and after the suction port
on the injector is tested during pump run. After verification of the injector
suction, connect the remaining hose end to the injector suction input.
Install the 4 supplied black clamps to secure the hoses. Using this
procedure we are verifying that the injector works, and then further assurance
the check valve is installed in the correct direction.
Installation Guidelines Figure 1 Post Filter
Bypass Method
Using
Ball Valve to divert flow through Venturi Injector
Figure 1 above is a
suitable for all filter types, and is the recommended method if plumbing space
is available after the filter.
The purpose of the ball
valve is to control water flow forcing its path to the injector. The injector
needs sufficient flow to cause a venturi or suction action to draw air flow
through the Ozone Joe’s Ozonator lamp chamber.
Installations using Clear Vinyl tubing in the
bypass
- Installations using ¾
inch clear vinyl tubing will require the use of either 1 ½” SLP x ¾ FPT or
2” SLP x ¾ FPT reducing PVC T’s, ¾ x ¾” MPT x ¾ hose barb, either 1 2/2” or
2’ ball valve, qty 4 worm gear metal
clamps.
- After installation the
visually observable ideal flow is obtained by adjusting the ball valve so
the frothing (very fine bubbles which resemble milk) after the injector are
between 12 and 18 inches prior to arranging to larger bubbles. This allows
for maximum ozone to water absorption. The clear vinyl hose length should be
between 6 and 8 feet in length. Ensure all hose clamps are secured.
Installations using hard plumbed ¾” PVC in the
bypass
- When installing using
hard plumbed PVC, the length of the ¾” PVC can be any length. The primary
issue with this type of install is that there is not always sufficient room
after the filter to add this type bypass in existing pools. If it is new
pool construction, allow for this install as it is easier to control the
flow versus relying upon pump backpressure as is the case in Figure 2. If
there is only room to place the two PVC “T”s and ball valve side by side,
this is fine. Just make sure to install this diverting bypass assembly with
at least 10 feet distance to the pool return outlet. Since the flow of
bubbles can not be viewed in the bypass, it is adequate to observe a fine
stream of bubbles returning to the swimming pool to ascertain the mechanism
is adjusted correctly. Alternatively, an air flow meter may be temporarily
placed in the ozone flow line. When using a flow meter adjust the ball valve
to between 4-7 SCFH. Use either 2” SLP x ¾” SLP or 1 ½ SLP” x ¾” SLP
reducing PVC “T’s. If using a V3 injector (ABS material), cement a ½ x ¾
coupling to the injector ends. Cement a ¾ x ¾ SLP to the coupling and
attached to the ¾ PVC bypass plumbing. If using a Mazzei brand injector
install using a ¾ SLP by ¾ FPT coupling. Recommended injector venturi
diameter for residential pools is 684 or 784.
Issues
that may be encountered with Figure 1 installation.
- The major issue with
this type of installation is not having sufficient room after the filter (or
heater if installed) to install 2 T”s and a ball valve. Another issue is
there is no way to visually monitor ozone frothing directly after the
injector if using hard plumbing. Ozone can however be monitored at the pool
return. Alternatively, an air flow meter may be temporarily placed in the
ozone flow line. When using a flow meter adjust the ball valve to between
4-7 SCFH. Outside of these two issues there should be no problems.
Installation Guidelines Figure 2 Filter Bypass
method
Using Filter backpressure to divert flow
through Venturi Injector
Figure 2 is
often used when there is not sufficient room to plumb 2 T’s and a ball valve
after the filter (figure 1). It is also used effectively with sand filters.
In all filter
type applications using Figure 2 method you must install the “T” located between
the filter and pump before any elbows, and the “T” nearest the pool after any
elbows. This provides additional differential pressure across the bypass to help
ensure flow.
If there is no
flow after this installation it is due to insufficient differential pressure.
One likely cause is the return inlet directional eyeballs are too small. If
there is no pressure, remove an eyeball or two to see if the ozone flow issue is
resolved.
If clear ¾”
vinyl hose is used it will be discolored which is normal. If there is a lot of
iron in the water it will become brownish red otherwise it will normally turn a
grayish white.
Although Figure
2 is used for all filter types there are certain issues that may be encountered
which are addressed below.
Sand
filter
This
installation type with sand filters normally works quite well as sand filters
allow enough back pressure to cause flow to be diverted through the injector. As
the filter becomes more clogged with trapped debris, and pressure rises, there
will be more flow forced through the injector and the pressure differential
pre-filter and post filter will provide greater venturi suction action which is
still acceptable.
Normally with
sand filters the pressure differential is great enough between pre-filter and
post-filter to cause sufficient venturi suction. If not, refer to
recommendations above.
One other issue
is that the pump may lose prime when not running as the injector is a source of
air. This does not always occur, and is related to pool water level to pump
location.
Cartridge
filters
Cartridge filters
inherently don’t provide the pressure differential of pre and post filter of
sand filters. If you have installed Figure 2 by installing the input “T” before
all elbows and the “T’ nearest the pool after all elbows and you have no ozone
flow you can try changing the pool return inlet eyeball size.
If changing
inlet eyeball size does not work, you will have to install a ball valve between
the “T” nearest the pool and the filter (if there is a heater install the ball
valve between the heater and the filter) and adjust as recommended in Figure 1.
Diatomaceous Earth (DE) filter
DE filters inherently don’t
provide the pressure differential of pre and post filter of sand filters. If you
have installed Figure 2 by installing the input “T” before all elbows and the
“T’ nearest the pool after all elbows and you have no ozone flow you can try
changing the pool return inlet eyeball size.
If changing
inlet eyeball size does not work, you will have to install a ball valve between
the “T” nearest the pool and the filter (if there is a heater install the ball
valve between the heater and the filter) and adjust as recommended in Figure 1.
Another issue
with installation Figure 2 with DE filters is some of the recharge media (DE)
fed into the skimmers will return to the pool through the injector. This can be
corrected by adding a ¾” ball valve into the injector bypass. Simply close the
ball valve when recharging.
Installation Guidelines Figure 3 Suction Side install
Using the pump basket drain plug or the
pump input plumbing to draw ozone
through the Ozone Joes ozone lamp chamber
Figure 3 is used by several
Ozonator manufacturers, and can be utilized with Ozone Joes systems as well. The
concept behind this install is that air is drawn through the Ozone creating
chamber in the Ozonator by the suction action of the pump. This method is used
in place of additional plumbing in figures 1 and 2.
This type of
installation is not without issues. The primary complaints by pump and filter
manufacturers are erosion of pump parts and cavitations of older filters that do
not self bleed.
Newer pumps do not normally
contain the internal metal and rubber parts as in the past. Ozone oxidizes
metals and is damaging to rubber. Issues with internal clinging of debris to
impellers are still noted.
Newer filters
contain self bleeding technology and compensate for the increased air being
sucked into the system. In older filters however, an external air bleeding kit
must be installed or allow the air an escape route. The air allowed from the
Ozonator to the system must be adjusted to keep from excessive buildup even in
newer filters.
When using this
suction side installation, the pool water will become clear in a shorter time
frame than using the bypass installs as the debris is occurring just prior to
the filter, however not all of the unused ozone passes through the filter.
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